1. Tell us about your career progression -
where you studied/trained, where you worked, who influenced you.
Anastasia:
I studied
my undergrad with Klio at University of Arts in London. We have met then and
are friends for more than ten years now. We both studied spatial design and
then I continued on with my grad degree of Urban Planning. I majored in
sustainable architecture and systems and I suppose it is then that my wider
interest in sustainability began. I learned much more about it applied to
architecture and cities, while I had the privilege to work for Sir John McAslan
& Partners. I also got more personal experience, while working
independently on a big leisure project, with leading hotel brands and world top
development team.
Being
exposed to a number off top world architectural projects, I have learned a lot
about sustainable practices and materials. However I came to realize that in
most of the areas of sustainable practices, the choices are never very obvious,
out there, still require a lot of research, especially the newest things on the
market. Ideas started rolling in this direction and not long after Klio and I
were researching about eco materials. Initially all kind of materials, but
further in we decided to concentrate on the soft materials and textiles.
Something that we both appreciated since young age and something we could apply
our sustainability knowledge at ease. That’s how the company idea came to life.
About my
personal background I can add that my grandfather was quite a big name in
architecture in pre and post revolution Russia, so my family paid a lot of
attention to my artistic education. I went to art schools, including the famous
watercolor academy of S.Andriyaka, did sculpture and my favorite - batik, a
kind of painting on textile. I also remember myself having endless notebooks
drawing fashion designs, when I was a child. Unfortunately none of them were saved
– but who knows perhaps I could draw some inspiration now from a younger me!
Klio:
After
finishing high school in Athens, I left to London where I studied Interior
& Spatial Architecture at Chelsea College of Arts. It was an unforgettable experience as I got
exposed to the best talents and teachers in the industry. The course basically taught me to how to
think and design, how to understand spaces, see how people feel in them and
observe. I worked in architecture & fashion for two years, travelled in
many countries around the world and decided to come to New York where I am
still based. In New York I came six years ago to gain a masters degree in
Environmental Planning and Sustainability at the Pratt Institute. That was the
time where my world expanded!
It wasn’t
until 3 years ago when we decided to start something with Anastasia. We were
both working for architectural firms at the time. We had always shared a mutual
passion about creativity and had worked together in the past. There was always
an understanding with Anastasia, a respect and most of all a friendship. Many people
have influenced my path, I am lucky enough to be very receptive and take others
opinions quite seriously.
We choose our materials based to sustainability, warmth, feel and texture. We are very proud because we have found a source for both peace and raw silk.
2. Your work involves choosing unique fabrics
and a handmade traditional tailoring. - classic styles, much loved - and subverting what's expected. Tell us
about how you developed your unique aesthetic.
Anastasia:
Aperse means
‘a thing or a person of unique qualities’. This defines the brand aesthetic and
our approach to design.
Firstly we
choose our materials according to the ecological aspects of sourcing and
production, secondly we sample the textile and select the best product form for
it, a particular knit or weave. Then materials are dyed or printed. In some
cases left untreated in order to preserve the yarns. That way we can guarantee
that an item achieves its best potential in terms of quality and remains
natural.
Tailoring
and finishing is something very important to us too as we want our pieces to
remain timeless and durable. At the same time we experiment with ways of
finishing, which can add an interesting detail to the garment and uplift it in
a contemporary way. All our pieces are finished by hand or on hand operated
machines, in some cases using very traditional artisan techniques.
The
different between a well produced and a luxury item is in details. We aspire to
carefully select natural materials and top quality finishing.
Klio:
We choose our materials based to sustainability, warmth, feel and
texture. We are very proud because we have found a source for both peace and
raw silk. Basically, peace silk allows the worms to live their entire cycle
happily instead of commercial silk where live silkworms are boiled. We also
work with incredible artisans from Nepal and Spain who use traditional handloom
techniques and applique beading. We buy the yak wool from nomads in Mongolia in
natural colors and depending on what is available at the time we order. Then
the wool, which is literally bought by the kilo, gets sent to Ulaanbaatar where
it’s weaved traditionally. The procedure with the cashmere is very similar with
the yak, although cashmere can be naturally dyed and blended with silk or wool.
We utilize a slow fashion protocol in terms of production and do not harm any
animal or the environment.
3.Your work is very personal and not so related
to trends and on what’s going in the fashion industry- do you see yourself as a
designer or more as an artist?
Anastasia:
I see
myself as a creator of beautiful, quality wearable pieces.
We
collaborate with artists, illustrators and we design ourselves. We enjoy the
process and we have the knowledge. Not originating from the fashion background,
but from artistic and architectural one, we approach design in a slightly
different way. We base our palettes and motives on the current color and
patterns trends. But design doesn’t start from a shape, but evolves into it,
through research, choice of materials and its treatment and aesthetics.
Klio:
I think of
myself as a designer. I love being part of a team of talented people. I love
learning from others and although I do not come from a fashion background per
se, I am very eager to learn. About trends: Anastasia and I never miss the big
expos about trends and colors for the next seasons. We also go to new materials
exhibitions quite often. Last time we discovered a fabric made from mushrooms.
We were so excited about it, immediately introduced ourselves to the factory
owner and learnt everything about it. Its fun!
Our SS17 Collection is inspired by our combined travels to tropical destinations, the style and elegance of colonial living.
4. Icons, places or activities that may inspire
you for your next collections.
Anastasia:
Our SS17
Collection is inspired by our combined travels to tropical destinations, the
style and elegance of colonial living. I covered a lot of Asia and Middle East,
while Klio has been to multiple locations in South America and we both love the
Caribbean. The nature of those places, the vivid colors, the shapes, the day to
night transitions, the tastes and the way we wanted to dress while on those
trips – all contributed to the next Tropical Collection.
Generally
speaking we are always inspired by the nature and art around us. Current
collection is for example inspired and resembles to the forest colors and
textures. Next AW17/18 Collection is under development, but is shaping
beautifully around winter nature and abstract art. We will have to chat to you
about it soon not to reveal too much as yet!
We pay utmost attention to their natural sourcing and preservation, which means that some can only remain in natural colors, some can be dyed using vegetable and eco dyes and some are printed with non-toxic non-chemical inks. So ultimately our choice of materials pre-defies our choice of colors.
5.How can an APERSE piece elevate over time
your wardrobe?
Anastasia:
Aperse
pieces are timeless. At least we try to create them that way. I think I can
speak for both of us, if I say that our ultimate satisfaction would be if
Aperse creations were passed on through generations in a particular family of a
woman who purchases one or more.
Art prints
are timeless as art always is, even if it is presented in a wearable way.
Textiles are of top quality. Sometimes-fragile due to natural structure,
however, durable. Outerwear is designed with modernized classics in mind. Soft
accessories are always convenient no matter what season or city. So each piece
can elevate your wardrobe in a different way – as a durable item, as an
investment, as a beautiful color or print to keep and cherish.
Klio:
An Aperse
piece is an investment piece. Something that I will have in my wardrobe for a
long time and that will surely be passed to a future generation. There is a
great attention of detail in the making of our pieces and we try to design them
as timeless and season-less as possible.
6.You use color and print in an interesting way
- how would you describe your designs?
Both:
Coming from
architectural and artistic background – use of colors and our choice of prints
is very important for us. We partner
with 2-3 artists and photographers each season and choose print works according
to our seasonal palette and theme. So far we have been very lucky to work with
very talented rising stars of the art world. We also find that interesting
creations arise when a few artists interact or collaborate on one project.
Our colors
also correspond to our chosen palette of the season. The starting point for
every collection is our materials. We pay utmost attention to their natural
sourcing and preservation, which means that some can only remain in natural colors,
some can be dyed using vegetable and eco dyes and some are printed with
non-toxic non-chemical inks. So ultimately our choice of materials pre-defies
our choice of colors.
7.What kind of girl/woman do you like to dress?
Anastasia:
I would
like to dress an ageless woman. Some young in age, some - young at heart.
Intelligent, busy with what she enjoys in life. Someone who finds joy in travel,
art and appreciates nature. Always elegant, whether in a classic or modern way.
A woman who buys with a sense, understanding the value, not impulsively. A
woman, who is caring and cares. The kind
I used to admire, when I was growing up myself – charming and always making an
impression, whether in an embroidered gown or a beach pareo.
Klio:
A smart,
independent and ageless woman. A woman who effortlessly looks stylish in a
white T!
8.What are your plans for the business over the
coming few years - what areas do you hope to grow and develop?
Both:
We would
like to establish ourselves in Europe and US and expand to the Middle East and
some parts of Asia. We would like to
perfect our quality, expand our artistic approach and and perhaps create a
signature-weaving technique. Our goal is to be represented in places with great
selections of luxury exceptional brands, boutique hotels, and travel
destinations. And ultimately open a flagship store, which we will design
ourselves to showcase our creations in an ideal setting and create a space for
artistic collaborations and exchange.
Instagram: @aperse_official
